Gobi Desert Mongolia

by lippertl

The next morning we took an early flight south to the Gobi Desert in an AH24 - a Russian-built military plane converted to civilian use (My brother will think this is interesting). The plane has 50 seats and is very basic - no air vents or reading light, only a 'fasten seat belt' sign and a woman handing out candy and cotton balls before take-off! The flight was smooth enough. We landed on a dirt runway and taxied at a jaunty angle. Perhaps they need a little more air in that left wheel!

Dalanzadgal, where we landed is a small, windy, flat city at about 6000 feet elevation. It is well located for trips into the desert. Our ger camp was about 35 km west. The Gobi Desert is in the southern part of Mongolia and is actually stony, scrubby wasteland with minimal vegetation. Sand dunes cover only about 3% of the Gobi. Our guide said that the population density here is about 0.5 people/km. In 1999 and 2000 Mongolia experienced the worst and longest 'Zud' in memory. 'Zud' is a Mongolian word describing any condition that keeps livestock from gettin grass. In this case, it was heavy snow and impenetrable ice cover. The situation was made worse because there was a drought during the summer in between (I think I have already mentioned this). Many animals died. As we drove around, we passed the carcass and skeletons of many animals.

Although it was kind of touristy, we had a great time riding a camel. It was a fairly smooth ride, but you definitely had to hold on and lean the right direction when it got up or down! Another camel walking with us kept using my shoe to scratch its nose. Glad I could be of help! The camels are the 2-humped Bactrian camel. Here comes the trivia: They are perfect for long distance desert travel, although kind of slow (about 5 km.hr). They can go a week without water and a month without food. They can carry up to 250 km, provide about 5 kg of wool/year, produce 600 liters of milk/year. They are a good source of meat, produce 250 kg of dung/yr (dried and used as fuel). If the humps are drooping, the camel is sick or needs food or water. A Thirsty camel can drink 200 liters in a single day! We stopped back to see the camel lady - to show here that we could tie the knot she had shown us the day before. We walked over to look at her sheep and goats. One lamb had a deformed foot - Sal agreed that she should put a leather cover over it for protection. All of her animals looked healthy and well-cared for. She had lost many animals during the Zud.

Driving to the Moltzog els sand dune area about 70 km away was pretty much an overland (vs on a road) route. Around the sand dunes were many camels. A baby had gotten separated from mom and was most unhappy and quite noisy. Finally, it figured things out and all was again well (and quiet). We stopped at 3 different wells to ask the nomads directions. 'Just over there' turned out to be about 30 km away. We walked around a forest area. The trees were very scrubby and, I'm sure, slow-growing. The tallest were perhaps 20 feet tall. They had little tube-like needles designed to minimize water loss. We saw a group of gazelles. The driver (not the good one from UlaanBaatar) got the jeep stuck. Why he though driving through soft sand was a good idea was unclear. We suspect it had something to do with the younger guide suggesting a different route! Putting the jeeps into 4-wheel drive involved taking off the wheel hub and using an allen wrench to screw it down. After much fussing he did get it out without us having to push. Next we drove over to the Flaming Cliffs - an area that looks like it belonged in Southern Utah/Arizona. Roy Chapman Andrews, American Paleontologist, when he first excavated some dinosaur eggs and bones in this area in 1922. This area is classic desert - rock, red sand, scrub, sun, and awesome emptiness. Driving back, the driver really put the pedal to the metal - which if you are holding on to the steering wheel, isn't bad. Sal wasn't talking and when I asked her if she could hear me - she said that she was keeping her teeth clenched so she wouldn't bite her tongue or break her teeth (and politely suggested that I shut-up and do the same!) Once again - though we didn;'t feel like our life was in danger, like in Tibet, we were wondering why men are allowed to drive.!


Later that night our driver, who speaks no English, came to our ger. We weren't sure what he wanted, but in keeping with Mongolian tradition, we offered him tea. After he slurped it down - he pointed to Sal's rope. He then showed us how to tighten the knot the camel lady had shown us. He then showed us a easy slick way to tie a double half hitch.

The morning we drew back to UB had one last absurd driving event. The plane was a charter for all of the people staying at our tourist camp. So everyone was headed for the same plane and the plane wouldn't leave without everyone. However, that didn't stop all the drivers from racing on the dirt tracks (roads) or cross-country in a mad dash. We really had to hold on - and we were on the road. Why, o why do we give guys the car keys!

Back in UB, we took in the Bogd Khaan Palace Museum. It was originally the winter palace of the last king in pre-revolutinary Mongolia (1869-1924). While he was ruler of government and religion - he died of syphilis! There were many nice relics but they don't quite get the grounds upkeep feature. The next day we drove about an hour and half to the NE. It is a very beautiful area of green hills and valleys, some patches of fir and birch trees. Great rock climbing area. It reminds us of Western Montana and Wyo9ming. We went for a long hike and sat on a hill soaking up the sun, the pleasant breeze, blue sky, herd of horses and the quiet. Heard and finally saw a cuckoo bird. What a wonderful afternoon!

Back in UB again, we took in the Mongolian Traditional Cultural performance. Using traditional instruments, the orchestra played traditional music as well as a few classical pieces. The sound was wonderful. As good as most western symphonies. Than dancing and singing was also impressive. Two fellows did throat singing - which is singing 2 different notes as the same time. Wow - how do they do that? This was the best performance we've seen.

We had a great time in Mongolia. It is the best kept secret in Asia. It was a wonderful ending to our long Asia experience. So, it's back to Beijing then on to Japan. Here's hoping we get good weather to climb Mt. Fuji!